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On Hand for Space History, as Superpowers Spar

In memory, after all this time, Apollo resists relegation to the past tense. It is close to midnight, and the summer air is warm and still, no heavier than usual for Florida. We are driving toward a light in the distance. Its preternatural glow suffuses the sky ahead but, strangely, leaves the land where we are in natural darkness.

After the first checkpoint, miles back, where guards inspected our badges and car pass, the source of the light comes into view. The sight is magnetic, drawing us on. Strong xenon beams converge on Pad 39A, highlighting the mighty Saturn 5 rocket as it is being fueled. Our car radio tells us the countdown is proceeding on schedule.

These are the wee hours of the day — July 16, 1969 — the country has waited for since 1961. The rocket fueling continues, the radio informs us. The countdown proceeds without interruption.
Read entire article at John Noble Wilford in the NYT